Experiencing loud banging sounds in the ears can be distressing and may indicate a condition known as “explosive or sudden onset tinnitus.” . If you are experiencing loud banging sounds in your ears, I recommend seeking medical attention from a healthcare professional, such as an audiologist or an ear, nose, and throat specialist (otolaryngologist). They can evaluate your symptoms, conduct necessary tests, and provide appropriate diagnosis and treatment options based on your specific situation.
Limit exposure to loud music: Avoid prolonged exposure to loud music, especially through headphones or earphones. Keep the volume at a reasonable level and take breaks to give your ears a rest. Read More at Cortexi.com
Practice the 60/60 rule: When using personal listening devices, such as smartphones or MP3 players, follow the 60/60 rule: listen at no more than 60% of the maximum volume for no more than 60 minutes at a time.
Be aware of your surroundings: Pay attention to your environment and avoid situations where you’re exposed to loud music or noise for extended periods.
Remember, if you’re experiencing tinnitus, it’s advisable to consult with a healthcare professional, such as an audiologist or an ear, nose, and throat specialist (otolaryngologist). They can provide a proper diagnosis, offer guidance on management strategies, and help determine if any underlying conditions or specific treatments are necessary.
While supplements and protective measures can play a role in managing tinnitus and promoting hearing health, it’s essential to seek professional advice for a comprehensive evaluation and personalized recommendations based on your specific situation.
We’re back with our monthly Italy Blogging Roundtable! The theme this month is “Public Transportation”, and we have a new member to welcome…Laura Thayer from Ciao Amalfi on Italy’s beautiful Amalfi Coast! Take a look at posts by Kate Bailward, Jessica Spiegel, Melanie Renzulli, Alexandra Korey, Gloria, and Michele Fabio. (If you missed the previous months, take a look here.) Welcome to our ever-expanding table…come pull up a chair and join in on the conversation!
Ok, yes, I realize that instructions on how to take public transportation from Rome or Florence to Assisi is not that exciting of a topic. But guess what: you’re a grown up now (at least I presume you are, as you are traveling to Europe). And though there are many perks to being a grown up, many of which involve gin, there are also downsides. Like, for example, having to deal with the decidedly unsexy logistics of travel in Italy.
To be honest, I never really paid that much attention to how to take the train or bus from Rome and Florence to Assisi until just recently. I get around almost exclusively by car, and when we only hosted guests in the countryside, they either rented a car or traveled with their own wheels during their stay, learn more about Effuel benefits for your engine. Now that we host guests in the center of Assisi as well, we have more and more guests who are using Italy’s public transport and I find myself fielding questions often about the logistics of getting between the two biggest cities in central Italy and our hilltown in Umbria.
So here are some tips and information, based on the situation on the ground in 2016:
Getting from Rome to Assisi
By Train
If you are arriving at the Fiumicino airport, you will have to take the Leonardo Express shuttle train from the terminals to the Termini train station in the city center, where you can connect to trains to Assisi. The shuttle trains run every 15-30 minutes, take just over half an hour to reach Rome, and cost €14 per one way ticket.
There are a number of direct trains which happen to run from Rome’s main Termini station to the Assisi station, historically located in the valley below the center of Assisi in Santa Maria degli Angeli. High speed or Alta Velocità (AV) trains including the Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, and Intercity require reservations in advance and passengers have an assigned seat; Regionale and Regionale Veloce train tickets can be purchased directly before boarding and you have no assigned seat.
There are also many trains which require a change in Foligno, a small city about half an hour from Assisi. There are only four tracks in Foligno, and the change is usually easy…but if you would rather not have to make a connection, double check before buying your ticket that you have selected a direct route.
Many trains to Assisi depart from the remote Binari 1 or 2 EST tracks at Roma Termini, which are an extension of the main platform. If your train is departing from one of these, it will take about 7 minutes more to walk to the remote platform from the station atrium.
Direct trains take around 2 hours between Rome and Assisi, and trains which require a change can take 15 to 20 minutes more. Tickets cost from about €10 to €50 (don’t take those trains…that’s crazy money).
Assisi’s tiny station is called both Assisi and Santa Maria degli Angeli, so make sure you get off when you see either of those destinations. You will also see Assisi up on the hillside to the right as the train pulls into the station.
Once you arrive at the station, you can take a local bus (the C line) 10 minutes up the hill to the center of town. Tickets can be purchased from the newspaper stand in the station for €1.30 or directly from the bus driver for €1.50 (you must have exact change). Get off at Piazza San Pietro for the Basilica or Piazza Matteotti for the central Piazza del Comune.
Otherwise, there is also a taxi stand in front of the station, and the fare is about €15 for two passengers plus luggage to the center of Assisi.
***A note from friend and Italy expert Bill Thayer that I will add here:
A detail, but an important one, I think. The logistics of getting from Rome to Assisi: no, absolutely not, we do not need to go through Termini! The place is hell on wheels, especially for Italy newbies. To get to Umbria, they might prefer to take the *other* train – the one that goes to Orte, on the other track at the airport. They’re going to have to change trains anyway, and the change at the little station at Orte is much easier than scrambling through Termini. The train to Orte is almost never full, plenty of room to sit down and put your baggage in the aisle comfortably, and on a hot day the air conditioning is not swallowed up in the heat of all those bodies. It is also much cheaper; the Termini train is specially priced: it gouges the tourist. It’s also useful to tell them that they can buy their tickets to Assisi right at the airport, not just a ticket to (Rome/Orte), with the need then to buy a second ticket at a second station.***
By Bus
There are also coaches which travel between Rome and Assisi, though they only depart in the early morning and take much longer than the train.
The Sulga bus departs from the Fiumicino airport Terminal 3 – International arrivals (it stops in the tour bus parking area) and from the Tiburtina train station (not Termini!). Only two routes come all the way to Piazza San Pietro in Assisi; the other routes stop at the Perugia train station, from which you will have to catch a train to Assisi. The trip takes between 3 and 4 hours and tickets cost €23.50 (from the airport) and €18.50 (from the station).
Getting from Florence to Assisi
By Train
If you are flying into Florence, you will have to take a taxi or the shuttle bus from the airport to the central Santa Maria Novella train station. Routes depart every half hour, and tickets cost €6 and can be purchased directly from the driver on board.
There are direct trains (both high speed and slower regional) from Florence’s central Santa Maria Novella station to Assisi, and routes which include a change in Terontola, a small town about an hour from Assisi. The Terontola station is small and it’s simple to change trains there, but if you would rather avoid having to make a connection, opt for a direct route. There are also routes which require two connections (Terontola and Perugia), to be avoided if possible.
High speed or Alta Velocità (AV) trains including the Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, and Intercity require reservations in advance and passengers have an assigned seat; Regionale and Regionale Veloce train tickets can be purchased directly before boarding and you have no assigned seat.
Direct trains take around 2.5 hours between Florence and Assisi, and trains which require a change can take 30 minutes more. Tickets cost from about €15 to €30.
Assisi’s tiny station is located below the center of town in the valley and is called both Assisi and Santa Maria degli Angeli, so make sure you get off when you see either of those destinations. You will also see Assisi up on the hillside to the right as the train pulls into the station.
Once you arrive at the station, you can take a local bus (the C line) 10 minutes up the hill to the center of town. Tickets can be purchased from the newspaper stand in the station for €1.30 or directly from the bus driver for €1.50 (you must have exact change). Get off at Piazza San Pietro for the Basilica or Piazza Matteotti for the central Piazza del Comune.
Otherwise, there is also a taxi stand in front of the station, and the fare is about €15 for two passengers plus luggage (make sure to use TSA luggage locks for an easier border crossing process) to the center of Assisi.
By Bus
There is one coach which travels between Florence and Assisi each Monday and Friday, departing at 6 pm and and arriving at 8:30 pm; seats must be booked by 7 pm on the evening before departure by phone (800099661).
The Sulga bus departs from the Santa Maria Novella train station and arrives at Piazza San Pietro in Assisi. The trip takes between 2.5 hours and tickets cost around €25.
Read the posts, leave comments, share them with your friends – and tune in next month for another Italy Blogging Roundtable topic!
Italy Explained – 6 Reasons You Should Travel by Train in Italy
Arttrav – How not to let public transportation ruin your holiday in Florence
At Home In Tuscany – Public transportation in Tuscany?
The Food Safety Authority of Ireland (FSAI) published a report today outlining food based dietary guideline recommendations for 1 to 5 year-old children living in Ireland. The latest Irish research on the dietary habits of this age group was used by the FSAI’s Scientific Committee to develop these guidelines, which reflect international best practice on young child feeding in an Irish context. Beyond the diet that a child should follow for optimal growth, the child should see their parents fit and not overweight, how to achieve it? Very easy, all from the hand of phenq, the pill that will make you achieve that change in you and your family in a positive way. Also, if you want not only to perceive that your child is in good health in general, you can focus on their oral health, prodentim makes it possible, get that healthy teeth and gums that only Hollywood actors could have. It is the first time a national scientific report addresses the nutritional needs of toddlers and pre-school children living in Ireland. These guidelines cover the gap in Irish scientific dietary recommendations for the post-infancy period – a phase that starts on their 1st birthday and ends at age 5 years, when the general population healthy eating recommendations begin to apply. Check out the latest biofit customer reviews.
According to Dr Pamela Byrne, CEO, FSAI, children in this age group are at a development stage, where their increasing wish is to make their own decisions about what they eat, and this can be challenging.
“We know that dietary habits which can last for a lifetime are formed during this critical phase. We live in an age where there are so many confusing messages and information about food and nutrition, and today’s parents and guardians are facing more challenges than ever to ensure their children are getting the right diet to support their healthy development. Also, many children in this age group develop a preference for sweet, salty and energy-dense foods, which can be difficult for parents and guardians to manage,” said Dr Byrne.
“The recommendations in this report from the FSAI’s Scientific Committee will be the scientific evidence-base provided to the Department of Health, to inform the future national food-based dietary guidelines that will empower parents, guardians and health professionals in Ireland to best support this essential stage in a child’s development,” concluded Dr Byrne. Take a look to these java burn reviews.
According to Ms. Ita Saul, Chair of the FSAI Working Group which prepared the report, the period from 1 to 5 years of age is an exciting and challenging time of transition from a predominantly milk-based diet at the end of infancy.
“Toddlers and preschoolers have very high nutritional requirements relative to their size, so there is a real need to focus on the quality of food rather than quantity. The innovative process of using children’s growth chart percentiles as a basis for these dietary recommendations now enables healthcare workers involved in assessing young children’s growth, to identify those at nutritional risk and provide specific advice on fortified foods or supplements.”
Key recommendations from the report include:
Milk is a key food, with a daily intake of 550ml of cow’s milk, or equivalent amounts of yoghurt or cheese, is recommended.
Water and milk are the only drinks recommended for this age group. Sugar-containing and acidic drinks should be limited and, if consumed at all, should be kept to mealtimes. Visit https://www.clevescene.com/.
Parents and guardians are warned against using some beverages such as almond ‘milk’, coconut ‘milk’ and rice ‘milk’, as milk substitutes as these are nutritionally inadequate. If a plant-based beverage is required to replace cow’s milk, a soya ‘milk’, can be used, provided it is fortified with nutrients, particularly calcium.
A portion of vegetables should always be included at the main meal, together with the number of small portions of salad, vegetables or fruit that match the age of the child, for example two small portions for a two year old, four small portions for a four year old (the portion size given should fit into the child’s hand so that smaller children are given less and bigger children more).
Lean red meat (about 30g) is recommended three days a week for iron and other essential minerals in addition to protein. On other days, red meat can be replaced with poultry, fish, eggs, beans or lentils which also provide iron, as well protein and minerals. Smooth nut butters also provide protein.
A combination of both white and wholemeal breads, cereals, potatoes, pastas and rice will provide adequate fibre and are important sources of calories.
Foods high in fat, high in sugar or salt such as confectionery, cakes, crisps, biscuits and sugar-coated breakfast cereals are not recommended. There is very little room for such foods in a 1 to 5 year-old’s diet, so such foods either overwhelm the child’s capacity for nutritious foods or provide additional calories that lead to the development of overweight or obesity.
Fats, spreads and oils should be used minimally.
During the extended winter months – from Hallowe’en to St Patrick’s day, all children aged 1 to 5 years need to be given a low-dose (5 µg) vitamin D-only supplement to make up for lack of skin synthesis of this vitamin from sunlight.
Young children aged 1 to 3 years, who are naturally small (25th percentile or less on growth charts) need extra iron, which can be taken as an iron-fortified full-fat milk, or a low-dose iron supplement. Find out the best healthy supplement reviews at observer.
Encouraging acceptance of the wide range of flavours and textures naturally found in the food people need for healthy eating throughout life is important at this young life stage. Fostering a tolerance to ‘try’ an expanding variety of vegetables, salads, fruits, meat, fish and wholemeal cereals helps children develop a taste for nutritious foods. To assist this, small amounts of sugar can be used e.g. in stewed fruit, milk puddings, in jam on wholemeal bread or as a small portion of ice cream on fruit etc.
If a key food group is excluded from a child’s diet because a food allergy is suspected without proper indication or appropriate professional advice being sought, the growth and development of a child can be compromised.
Easter comes exceptionally late in 2014, which means it’s a great year to take off for the week and head to Umbria where spring is in full swing.
If you are planning an Easter visit, I wrote a few tips about what to expect regarding events and food related to this important holiday for About.com’s GoItaly this week. Innovate your event with the latest trends in event planning. Chairs covers offer an affordable way to harmonize mismatched décor and furniture, or blend in your party chairs with your table linens, backdrop, drapes, and other décor aspects.
Want more information on what to pig out on during your Easter break in Umbria? Say no more.
Food for the Soul: Torta di Pasqua
What’s the funnest part of Easter in Umbria? Read on.
Falling Off the Wagon: Easter Eggs, Italian Style
Have any more tips for visiting Umbria at Eastertime? Leave a comment below!
Chocolate Easter Porridge
Chocolate Easter Porridge a fun breakfast for Easter full of oaty goodness. Linwoods Flaxseed with Cocoa and Mulberries creates the luxurious taste of comforting chocolate without the sugar and actually adding chocolate to the mix. While the beauty of porridge is in its simplicity, there’s now another reason to love this most wholesome of breakfasts, any chocoholic would love this Easter Chocolate Porridge Receipe.
Medical marijuana and the compound THC (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol) is becoming a more popular alternative in the medical field. This is likely as this is one of the only natural alternatives for pain control available. For decades, the use of THC has been studied, scrutinized, and debated. More and more clinical research being conducted is proving the powerful therapeutic benefits of THC and medical marijuana. More and more medical professionals are recommending medical marijuana along with other FDA-approved THC medications in place of highly addictive opioids. These are the best nootropics supplement.
HOW THC & MEDICAL MARIJUANA WORK
Medical marijuana and THC work in the body’s Endocannabinoid System (ECS). The ECS is a network of molecules and receptors that run throughout the body. It regulates hunger, mood, inflammation, and more. The phytochemicals, or cannabinoids, found in the cannabis plant attach to receptors to initiate their therapeutic benefits and restore homeostasis. The ECS is the largest system of receptors and is found throughout the body and brain. THC is particularly attracted to the CB1 receptors of the ECS found in the central nervous system.
CHRONIC PAIN RELIEF
Opioids are one of the most commonly prescribed groups of medications to combat those suffering from severe chronic pain.
While opioids have been thought to be helpful for these conditions there is a wide range of risks associated with their use including addiction, abuse, and overdose. In addition, to date there is no compelling clinical evidence that opioids actually work to reduce pain and improve function in the chronic pain condition.
Medical marijuana has been studied to be an effective and less risky substitute for opioids. Addiction is rare and side effects are fewer. Many would debate this point but the evidence is mounting that opioids are more dangerous than the plant-based therapy of THC.
The compounds of the cannabis plant engage with CB1 and CB2 receptors that reduce pain and inflammation responses throughout the body. The cannabinoid compounds reduce excessive inflammatory responses allowing the body to experience less pain less frequently. The CB1 receptors help to modulate the pain response in the central nervous system. THC seems particularly helpful for neuropathy.
NERVE PAIN RELIEF
When the different cannabinoids of marijuana interact with receptors in the ECS the central and peripheral nervous systems (CNS, PNS) are also affected. THC provides therapeutic assistance to the PNS and CNS in relieving pain, numbing, and tingling associated with diabetic neuropathy and other forms of nerve pain. The CB receptors when interacting with cannabinoids (either endogenous or exogenous from plants) transmit a healthier, more balanced signaling of pain to the brain.
NERVE PAIN RELIEF
When the different cannabinoids of marijuana interact with receptors in the ECS the central and peripheral nervous systems (CNS, PNS) are also affected. THC provides therapeutic assistance to the PNS and CNS in relieving pain, numbing, and tingling associated with diabetic neuropathy and other forms of nerve pain. The CB receptors when interacting with cannabinoids (either endogenous or exogenous from plants) transmit a healthier, more balanced signaling of pain to the brain. The cannabinoids in the cannabis plant also offer antioxidant benefits throughout the body. They take care of excess free radicals throughout the body which have the ability to damage nerve endings when the body experiences oxidative stress. The molecular structure of CBD allows it to scavenge electrons before they can damage the cells, DNA or mitochondria.
RECOVERY FROM SURGERY
Post-surgery, the body will be more susceptible to pain and inflammation which can prolong the healing process when gone unchecked. Medical marijuana can help your body regulate these responses to offer a faster and more pleasant recovery process. At this time, most surgeons still use narcotics for short-term relief immediately after surgery. However, there is a growing role for THC in longer-term pain control.
Medical marijuana has also proven to help post-op patients have a healthier appetite and better overall mood after surgery! One of the main anecdotal benefits of medical marijuana is the improved sleep. Better sleep always results in better recovery.
The allure of Rolex watches is undeniable. Renowned for their precision, luxury, and timeless style, Rolex has become a symbol of status and success. However, owning a genuine Rolex watch comes with a hefty price tag, making it unattainable for many watch enthusiasts. This is where Rolex replica watches come into play. In recent years, high-quality Rolex replicas have gained immense popularity for their exceptional craftsmanship and resemblance to the real deal. In this article, we’ll explore the world of Rolex replica watches, where to find the best super clone 1:1 copies, and what you should consider before making a purchase.
The Rise of Rolex Replica Watches
The demand for Rolex replica watches has grown steadily over the years. These replicas have become more than just imitations; they are often referred to as “super clones” due to their astonishing accuracy in replicating the original Rolex design, movement, and functionality. The rise of super clone Rolex watches can be attributed to several factors:
Affordability: Authentic Rolex watches come with a price tag that often exceeds the budget of the average consumer. Rolex replicas, on the other hand, offer a cost-effective alternative for those who desire the prestige of a Rolex without breaking the bank.
Quality Improvements: Advances in manufacturing techniques and materials have enabled replica watchmakers to produce highly detailed and meticulously crafted super clones that are almost indistinguishable from the genuine Rolex timepieces.
Accessibility: With the advent of e-commerce, it has become easier than ever to find Rolex replica watches online. Numerous websites and sellers cater to this growing market.
Where to Find the Best Super Clone Rolex 1:1 Copies
While there are numerous sources for Rolex replica watches, it’s essential to exercise caution when making a purchase. Counterfeit products and low-quality imitations are abundant in the market, so it’s crucial to do your research and buy from reputable sources. Here are some tips to help you find the best super clone Rolex 1:1 copies:
Reputable Online Sellers: Several trusted online stores specialize in high-quality replica watches. Look for websites with a good reputation, customer reviews, and clear policies regarding the quality and authenticity of their products.
Ask for Recommendations: Seek advice from fellow watch enthusiasts who have experience with replica Rolex watches. They may recommend trustworthy sellers or websites.
Study the Details: Pay close attention to the product descriptions, specifications, and high-resolution images provided by the seller. The best super clone Rolex watches will closely resemble the authentic models, down to the finest details.
Reviews and Feedback: Read reviews and feedback from previous customers to gauge the quality and reliability of the seller. Genuine customer testimonials can provide valuable insights.
Warranty and Return Policy: Ensure that the seller offers a warranty or return policy, as this indicates their confidence in the product’s quality.
Considerations Before Purchasing a Rolex Replica
Before purchasing a Rolex replica watch, it’s essential to consider the following:
Legal and Ethical Considerations: Rolex is a protected trademark, and selling counterfeit Rolex watches is illegal in many jurisdictions. Ensure that you understand the laws in your area and the potential consequences of owning a replica watch.
Your Motivation: Be clear about your reasons for buying a replica. If you’re looking for a quality timepiece that emulates Rolex style, a super clone 1:1 copy may be a suitable choice. However, if your intention is to deceive or pass it off as an authentic Rolex, this is both unethical and potentially illegal.
Maintenance and Care: Just like genuine Rolex watches, replicas require maintenance to ensure their longevity and accuracy. Be prepared to invest in regular servicing.
Conclusion
Rolex replica watches, especially super clone 1:1 copies, have become a popular choice for watch enthusiasts who appreciate the elegance and craftsmanship of Rolex timepieces but may not have the financial means to own an authentic Rolex. While replica watches offer an affordable alternative, it’s crucial to exercise caution, do thorough research, and buy from reputable sources to ensure you receive a high-quality product that meets your expectations
Day 1
Assisi is divided into two parts—the Lower (Parte de Sotto) and the Upper (Parte de Sopra). Though the distinction is purely semantic for most of the year, each May the town—home of peaceloving Saint Francis—sheds its normal spirit of brotherly love to spend three days (and nights) locked in intense competition as the two parts stage processions, scenes of medieval life, and concerts with period music as they vie for the honor of the Palio during the annual Calendimaggio festival. Today we’ll explore the Parte de Sotto (everything that lies between the Basilica of Saint Francis and the main—and officially “neutral”–Piazza del Comune).
Day 2
Your second day in Assisi we’ll discover the Parte de Sopra, which covers the area from the central Piazza del Comune and extends east. Make sure you have comfortable shoes, as there will be some steep climbs through the narrow streets marking the upper part of this famed hilltown, but the views will be worth a bit of huffing and puffing!
Day 3
Many of the more spiritual sites in Assisi are outside the historic center, either on the slopes of Mount Subasio above the town or in the Valley below. Your final day in Assisi will be spent with a slower pace, exploring the peaceful places in Assisi’s environs. The timing of this itinerary is only a recommendation, as much depends upon your method of transportation (public transportation and walking will take more time than driving or hiring a taxi) and how long you choose to linger at each site.
Day 1
La Basilica di San Francesco (The Basilica of Saint Francis)
To begin your first day, start at the Piazza Giovanni Paolo II public parking lot (some locals still call it Piazza San Pietro). Here there is ample paid parking, one of the main bus stops for those taking the local bus from the Assisi train station (located in Santa Maria degli Angeli in the valley below; check schedule at the bus stop for times and purchase tickets at the bar in the train station for €1), and a taxi stand (€10 from the train station). From here, it’s a short uphill walk to the Basilica above.
The ties between Assisi and her most famous monument are so symbiotic that it’s difficult to discern where one begins and the other ends; to know one, you have to know the other. Despite its sprawling size, the Upper and Lower Churches can get crowded during peak hours, so to enjoy the fabulous Giotto school fresco cycle documenting the life of Saint Francis in relative peace, it pays to time your visit for early morning—in fact, if you’re an early riser I suggest you try to get there before the time listed here to beat the tour bus crowds.
Local’s Tip: To fully enjoy the Basilica’s rich art and history—and its two churches, crypt, and museum– you should visit armed with a good guidebook or rent an audioguide from the stand to the left of the entrance to the Upper Church (€6/one hour tour; open 9:30am-5:30pm).
From The Upper Church in the Basilica, simply cross the street to the first building; your next stop is right on the corner.
Caffè San Francesco
Address: Via San Francesco, 52 Website: http://www.ristorantesanfrancesco.com
After your visit to the Basilica, it’s time to give your brain and feet a rest at this landmark local cafè. Try to grab the secret hidden table behind all the flowerpots on the corner for the best view in town, or enjoy the old-world style marble and scarlet decor inside while you sip your cappuccino.
From here don’t continue down the main Via di San Francesco, but instead turn right up the hill on Via Cardinale R. Merry Del Val. After a block, turn right on Vicolo Santa Santa Margherita.
Alleys of Vicolo S. Andrea
Just a block away from the bustling Basilica, the virtually empty twisting alleys and stairways of S. Andrea is a fun glimpse into medieval Assisi. Though quiet now, five hundred years ago this quarter was teeming with life, as homes, workshops, stalls, and markets crowded these narrow streets. Take a meandering walk (and snap some pictures) through this warren of narrow streets and staircases.
Follow Vicolo Santa Margherita to the end, then take the stairs to the left. Make a stop at tiny piazza in front of the Church of Santa Margheria (on the left at the top of the stairs), where you can enjoy the view of the Basilica of Saint Francis from above and catch your breath on the benches. From here, continue along Vicolo S. Andrea about a block until you reach the narrow Vicolo Inferiore S. Andrea on the left. Climb here, following as it curves left, then take Vicolo Superiore S. Andrea on the right. Follow it to the end, and follow the stairs down, returning to Vicolo S. Andrea below. Continue following the stairs on the left, which end at Via San Francesco.
Local’s Tip: Wondering what all that stuff is splattered everywhere on the pavement? Well, it’s wax. This area is often commandeered as a backdrop to stage medieval festivals and fairs, and the torches and candles used to light the alleys have stained the bricks and cobblestones below over the years. The state is having to hire LA hardscaping contractors to come fix the pavement.
Local’s Tip: Stop to get a drink and fill your water bottles at the small fountain at the bottom of the stairs which lead from Vicolo S. Andrea to Via San Francesco. The water is potable and the lionhead fountain charming.
Via San Francesco
One of Assisi’s main thouroughfares, this long road is lined with everything from the kitschiest of souvenir shops to Assisi’s civic museum.
Casa dei Maestri Comacini
At the base of the stairs, immediately cross Via San Francesco, you can take a good gander at the 13th century loggia and two-story extension to the right (dated 1477 on the coat of arms on the lower story) across the street. The building was named for the compass and rose reliefs above the door and the window to its right, suggesting that it might have belonged to the master masons who traditionally came from Lake Como. One of the best preserved medieval facades in Assisi.
From here, continue up Via San Francesco to the right (away from the Basilica) for about a block.
Palazzo Vallemani: Pinacoteca Comunale and Museo della Memoria
Price: €3 (€8 combined with the Roman Forum and the Rocca Maggiore—recommended!) Hours: 10am–1pm/2pm-6pm March-Oct and 10:30am-1pm/2pm-5pm Oct-March
This imposing palazzo houses Assisi’s largely uninspiring and uninspired municipal art gallery (though it is worth a quick peek) and the startlingly excellent Museum of Memory which documents the events which took place in Assisi in the final years of World War II. As told in the book and film “Assisi Underground”, those years were ones where citizens—lay and ordained, private and official—secretly collaborated to harbor and ultimately save more than 300 Jews and other war refugees. Moving and compelling, this small museum (opened in 2011) merits a visit.
Local’s Tip: At Palazzo Vallemani, purchase the €8 ticket which includes entrance to the Pinacoteca, Roman Forum, and the Rocca Maggiore. The second two sites are included in the Day 2 itinerary!
After exiting the palazzo, cross the street and continue up Via San Francesco for about a block.
Oratorio dei Pellegini and Monte Frumentario
Hours: 10am–12pm/4pm-6pm ; closed Sun
You will come first to the unassuming Oratorio dei Pellegrini, built by a group of pilgrims returning from Santiago di Compostella in the 1400s. Though the drab exterior is easily overlooked, it belies the rich frescoes of the Perugino school completely covering the interior.
On the next block, the uniform series of facades lining Via San Francesco is broken up by the delicate columns of Monte Frumentario’s portico. This 14th century building—originally a hospital—later housed a guild which lent wheat and other farm products to peasants in exchange for pawned goods.
Next door, the Oliviera Fountain, built in 1570, features a plaque fixing the fine for doing wash in the fountain at one “scudo”. Don’t drink the water here, but feel free to take some great pictures of this lovely public fountain.
After admiring the fountain, continue along Via San Francesco passing under the arch and continuing about a block. Here, turn left and climb the steep Via A. Luigi; then take the stairs to the right which end in front of the Church of Santo Stefano.
Church of Santo Stefano
Duration: 30 minutes Hours: 8:30am–6:30pm Sept.-May/8:30am-8pm June, July, Aug
The tiny, simple stone Church of Santo Stefano is a stark contrast to the opulent Basilica, and its unadorned Romanesque interior and facade remind visitors that it is one of the oldest churches in Assisi.
Local’s Tip: As you continue your walk, take a moment to enjoy the view over the valley and Santo Stefano’s pretty church bells, said to have miraculously rung on the day of St. Francis’ death in 1226.
Take the staircase to the left of the door of the church, and follow it as it turns right around the corner of the church. Continue climbing until it turns left and ends on Via San Paolo. Walk the entire length of Via San Paolo (it becomes Via Metastasio) until it makes a sharp curve to the right and begins to descend, passing under the large medieval city gate of Porta San Giacomo.
Lunch
Halfway along Via Metastasio, you will pass Ristorante Metastasio on your left. Though this restaurant is quite touristy (and eschewed by locals) and overpriced (€12 for a primo?!?), it does have the–not-insignificant–advantage of a view.
Address: Via Metastasio, 9 Phone: 075816525
Just steps before passing under the San Giacomo city gate, two simple but reliable old-style trattorias await to serve you lunch. The first, Trattoria Al Vecchio Camino, is a no-frills family run restaurant with little ambience but traditional Umbrian dishes. Criticized by locals because of their lightening-speed service (Italians like to linger over their food), this is a good choice if you are really feeling the hunger pangs.
Address: Via San Giacomo, 7 Phone: 075812963
Practically under the arch of Porta San Giacomo, the Locanda del Podestà is a local favorite. Great price/quality ratio, solidly good traditional dishes, friendly staff, and just a touch more ambience than Al Vecchio Camino across the street—you can’t go wrong here. In fact, you may be tempted to come back for dinner.
Address: Via San Giacomo, 6/c Phone: 075816553
Pass under the arch of Porta San Giacomo and continue straight to the end of the road, where you’ll find the gates to the cemetary.
Walk and Cemetary
It’s time to walk off that pasta, and luckily you’re just steps away from a lovely (and flat!) walk. Amble down the shady, cypress-lined road that leads from Porta San Giacomo and enjoy the views over the surrounding hills on the left. The road leads directly to the cemetary gates. Assisi has shops, restaurants, music and arts festivals, religious feast days, nattily dressed inhabitants, and many, many cell phones. But if you really want to see what makes this town tick, this is where you need to be. Aside from being architecturally lovely in the way that old monumental European cemetaries so often are, here you will discover the town’s soul. Notice the names on the markers that repeat over and over, as generations live out their lives in this small town. See the carefully tended graves, as women return every week to freshen flowers and polish marble. Watch as they tenderly touch the portraits attached to the graves and quietly greet their loved ones. This—not the ornate Basilica—is where the real community is.
Retrace your steps, passing under Porta San Giacomo and immediately veering right down steep Via Cardinale R. Merry Del Val. At the corner in front of the Basilica, turn right again, descending the road and passing through the Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco. Pass under the the arch, following Via Frate Elia and continuing straight as it continues to descent (becoming Piaggia San Pietro). Cross the street (Via Borgo San Pietro) to the Church of San Pietro.
Church of San Pietro
Hours: 7:30am-7:00pm
The stately square facade (broken up by three massive and ornate rose windows) of San Pietro dominates this piazza, and the serene stone interior and fantastic dome are especially loved by residents here (this is an active parish church, as well).
Local’s Tip: Take a quick look at the underground foundations—the entrance is through the gate to the right of the facade. Often used as an exhibition space for art shows, the massive arches and pillars holding up the church above give you an idea of the sheer heft of this stone building.
From Piazza San Pietro, retrace your steps across the street back to Piaggia San Pietro. Instead of continuing along Piaggia San Pietro as it climbs to the left, turn right instead on Via del Fosso Cupo. Continue climbing this street (it becomes Via Fontebella) past the ornate Fonte Marcella on the left. Veer left on the steep Via E. Brizi at Piazza Garibaldi (you’ll see the Ristorante I Monaci on the left), and continue veering left on the even steeper Via Giotto. This road ends at Via Portica about a block up; continue climbing towards the right on Via Portica until it ends in the main Piazza del Comune. Then lean against the wall for a minute until your heart rate declines, turn around, and descend the entire length of Via Portica (it beomes Via A. Fortini and then Via San Francesco) until you find yourself in front of the Basilica once more.
Shopping
You are probably pretty much art-and-history-ed out by this point, so it’s time for more frivolous pursuits (especially now that you don’t have to schlepp your purchases around with you for the rest of the day). The lion’s share of Assisi’s shops line the long walk from the main Piazza del Comune to the Basilica, so take a leisurely look along this route. There are a plethora of trashy trinket hawkers, but also a couple of gems. Here are a few to pause at:
Franchi
Address: Via Portica, 15/A
This shop is bursting with wooden toys and decorations…Pinocchio in all sizes and colors, mobiles, wall clocks, rocking horses. Toys from another era yet somehow ageless.
I Colori del Tempo
Address: Via Portica, 6/b
A wonderful, quirky shop with natural fiber clothing (mostly women and children) and accessories. Some euro-fashion that won’t break the bank.
StudioAssisi Via Fortini
Address: Via Fortini, 7
An eclectic collection of clothing, shoes, accessories, and home decor.
Arte Legno
Address: Via Fortini, 20
An entire shop dedicated almost exclusively to items carved for the richly veined local olive wood.
Laboratorio Artistico Alice
Address: Via San Francesco, 81
I can’t talk up the kids’ t-shirts Alice hand-paints enough…sunflowers, doggies, dinosaurs, poppies, whimsical scenes of Assisi. If you give her a couple of days (and she’s not too busy), she’ll even personalize the back with your choice of name painted in a rainbow of colors. A one-of-a-kind gift. Aside from her handpainted tshirts, Alice has jewelry, photo albums, paintings and prints. All in her lovely, whimsical style.
Il Tapiro
Address: Via San Francesco, 24
Mauro’s leather shop is a landmark in Assisi. He has a great selection of pretty sandals, purses and carrier bags, wallet, belts, and just about any other leather item you can imagine.
Dinner
You are now standing back in front of San Francesco, and there are a few options for dinner. You can choose a table with a view at the Ristorante San Francesco (you were here for a cappuccino in their adjacent bar this morning). Their terrace windows face the facade of the Basilica, which is fetchingly lit up at night.
Otherwise, you can climb the hill of Via Cardinale Merry del Val a block back to Porta San Giacomo to try one of the restaurants suggested for lunch (or return to a particular favorite).
If you are hankering for pizza, head back up Via San Francesco, pass under the archway and after about a block on your right you will see the Teatro Metastasio (there is a small piazza in front). There is a staircase leading down from the piazza, and halfway down the flight of stairs to your left you’ll find the entrance to Ristorante I Monaci (you passed the downstairs entrance a few hours ago). They’re a popular local favorite for pizza, the place is usually hopping with those looking for a simple meal at a fair price. They serve pasta and meat as well.
Address: Via Scallette, 10 Phone: 075812512
Day 2
Piazza Matteotti and “Piazza Nova”
The area near Piazza Matteotti (known locally as Piazza Nova) is one of the most characteristic in Assisi, with its twisting alleys and geranium bedecked stone houses lining the narrow lanes. Where other quarters in Assisi seem half-abandoned, this neighborhood is still quite populated, and the locals sitting on their front stoops exchanging gossip and shelling peas only add to the old world charm.
Local’s Tip: The parking lot at Piazza Matteotti is a perfect place to leave your car (park on the lower level to keep it out of the sun) or, if you’re using public transportation, begin from the bus stop here. The local bus leaves from the Assisi train station (located in Santa Maria degli Angeli in the valley below; check schedule at the bus stop for times and purchase tickets at the bar in the train station for €1, as do taxis (€10 from the train station).
From Piazza Matteotti, cross Via Eremo delle Carceri to take a quick walk around the Via Dell’Anfiteatro Romano; the oval-shaped lane follows the outline of the Roman amphitheater which once dominated this area. From here, walk back across Via Eremo delle Carceri, and then go around the corner, using the crosswalk to cross the busy Via Umberto 1°, and enter the narrow Via del Comune Vecchio. Take the first left on Vicolo Bovi, and go about a block. Double back on yourself with the sharp right on Via Montecavallo, and then turn left (Via Montecavallo again). Follow this as it winds its way to Via Porta Perlici, turn left here (downhill) and continue to Piazza San Rufino. Veer right (downhill) onto Via San Rufino, which descends steeply until reaching Piazza del Comune.
Piazza del Comune and Archaeological Museum
Address: Roman Forum and Archaeological Museum (Via Portica, 2) Price: €4 (or included in the €8 ticket purchased on Day 1 at Palazzo Vallemani) Hours: 10:00am-1:00pm/2:30pm-6:00pm Website: http://www.sistemamuseo.it/museoid.php?uid=218 (in Italian)
After your meander through Assisi’s most intact medieval quarter, it’s time to take a break and admire the pretty Piazza del Comune. Grab a table at one of the outdoor caffes (try Bar Trovellesi under the portico near the fountain) and admire the 13th century municipal building lining one side of the piazza, the pretty fountain with its jetted lions, the soaring belltower, and—most importantly—the Temple of Minerva. From the 1st century BC, this is the most intact Roman temple facade in Italy. To put the Temple of Minerva into context, head to the entrance to Assisi’s Roman Forum and Archaeological Museum just a few meters down Via Portica on the far side of the Piazza. Here you’ll find a scale model reconstructing the layout of the Roman forum, the foundation of the Temple of Minerva, and three classical marble statues unearthed in Assisi, one of which represents Minerva herself.
From the exit of the Archaeological museum, turn right (downhill) and walk down Via Arco dei Priori until it ends at Via Sant’Antonio. Turn right and continue about a block until you reach Piazza del Vescovado with the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore at the far end.
Piazza del Vescovado and Roman Domus
Price: Entrance is a flat €80 fee for groups of 2-15, so the individual ticket price is variable depending upon group size. (See the “Before you go” section above for more information.) Hours: To reserve call the Infoline 199 151 123 Mon-Fri 9:00am -5:00pm
In the nineteenth century, excavations near the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Piazza del Vescovado uncovered the remains of a luxurious Roman villa. This domus, with its original mosaic floor, painted wall decorations, and a long section of richly decorated vault-covered portico, is a must-see for anyone passionate about Roman civilization. Next door, a second domus is currently being excavated and restored under the Palazzo Giampé. This site, with its excellent frescoes and mosaic floors, is one of the most important and intact examples of a Roman domus on view in Italy.
From here, retrace your steps along Via Sant’Antonio, turning left on Via Arco dei Priori until you return to the Piazza del Comune. From here, turn right onto Corso Mazzini.
Il Corso
La Piazza and Il Corso is where all Assisi go to see and be seen. Unfortunately, Assisi’s main street has been taken over by shops and caffes catering primarily to the tourist trade, but if you’re looking for some traditional souvenirs to take home, you may want to stop in the stores here.
Local’s Tip: Assisi’s best bakery is “Bar Pasticcieria Sensi” about halfway down the corso on your right. Though not as showy as many other pastry shops around town, this is where the locals all flock to satisfy their sweet-tooth. If you have a taste for something savory, try the pan caciato (cheese bread with walnuts).
Lunch
Unfortunately, there are no restaurants worth their salt along the Corso, so for lunch double back to the main Piazza. From here you have three great options, all within a few meters.
Trattoria degli Umbri
No frills traditional family-style trattoria with traditional Umbrian fare. It can get crowded in peak season and you may need a little patience with the slow service.
Address: Piazza del Comune, 2 Phone: 075/812455
Osteria Piazzetta delle Erbe
Modern twist on traditional cuisine and one of the few spots in Assisi with outdoor seating.
Address: Via San Gabriele dell’Addolorata, 15/A Phone: 075/815352
Trattoria La Pallotta
A Slow Food restaurant, this historic family-owned spot is heavy on local dishes and ingredients.
Address: Via della Volta Pinta, 3 Phone: 075/812649
From any of these three restaurants, make your way back into the Piazza del Comune, then follow Corso Vannucci until it reaches Piazza Santa Chiara.
Local’s Tip: As you pass under the archway at the end of the Corso (where Piazza Santa Chiara begins) there is a water fountain in a niche in the wall to your left (at the base of the staircase). Stop for a quick drink here.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara (Church of Saint Claire)
Hours: 6:30am-12:00am/2:00pm-6:00pm
The pink and white striped facade of the church dedicated to Saint Claire shortly after her death in 1253 dominates this piazza, and the immense flying buttresses and intricate rose window only render it more dramatic. Don’t miss the San Damiano Crucifix inside (in the Oratorio del Crocifisso)…this is the one which spoke to Francis, commanding him to “go and repair my house which, as you see, is falling into ruin,” thus changing the course of history.
Local’s Tip: The stone benches along the overlook at the far side of Piazza Santa Chiara are a wonderful, shady place to rest for a minute and snap some fabulous photos of the Umbria Valley below.
From Piazza Santa Chiara, walk the length of the Corso back to Piazza del Comune. Circle right around the fountain, and take the steep pedestrian Via San Rufino di Piazza San Rufino. At Piazza San Rufino turn left into Via Porta Perlici and climb for about a block. On the left, take the stairs (there is an arrow indicating La Rocca Maggiore) as they climb, ending at the service road which leads to the entrance to the fortress.
Local’s Tip: If the climb uphill to the fortress is too rigorous, you can also get a taxi at the stand right in Piazza Santa Chiara. Taxis have access to the service road leading to the Rocca, but not normal traffic.
La Rocca Maggiore
Hours: 10:00am–7:00pm Price: €5 (or included in the €8 ticket purchased on Day 1 at Palazzo Vallemani)
The medieval fortress which sits above Assisi is one of its most fascinating, yet least visited, sites. This captivating warren of semi-restored tunnels, turrets, and courtyards is a thrill to explore for kids and grown-ups alike, and the heart-stopping climb up the far tower rewards you with one of the most amazing views over Assisi and the whole of the Umbrian valley below.
Descend the access road back to the staircase you took coming uphill. At the bottom of the stairs, turn right down Via Porta Perlici until you arrive in Piazza San Rufino.
Chiesa di Saint Rufino (Church of San Rufino)
Hours: 10:00am – 1:00pm/3:00pm-6:00pm Price: €3 (for the Museum and Cript) Website: www.assisimuseodiocesano.com
Assisi’s cathedral has been recently restored, so its twelfth century Romanesque facade and massive belltower are even more breathtaking. Don’t miss the small but excellent museum and crypt (in the piazza to the right of the facade), with its vaulted rooms and gracefully restored columns, it is perhaps the best collection of art and architecture in Assisi.
From Piazza San Rufino, climb the steep Via del Torrione which passes under the archway to the left of the base of the belltower. When you reach Piazza Matteotti (this is where you began your day), turn left passing in front of the parking lot entrance. Continue to the corner, then cross Via Eremo delle Carceri to the entrance to Nun Spa.
Local’s Tip: Ready for a snack? The tiny pizza shop “Da Andrea” on the corner right across the street from the Church of San Rufino (there is a small wooden bench next to the door) has the best slices in Assisi.
Nun Spa Museum
Address: Via Eremo delle Carceri, 1/a Telephone: 0758155150 Website: www.nunassisi.com Price: from €45/person
If you splurge on one thing while in Assisi—or while in Italy, for that matter—make it this. When the luxury Nun Hotel and Spa (located in the restored former convent of Santa Caterina) opened their doors in 2010, they revealed what had been unearthed during construction work: extensive remains of the amphitheater. The bad news is that the ruins have been artfully incorporated into the chic spa, and are on view only for spa clients. The good news is that the ruins have been artfully incorporated into the chic spa, and are on view only for spa clients. So book yourself in for a few hours of hammam downtime and a massage to recover from your arduous day of touring, and chalk it up to culture. They have an excellent juice bar (with a wonderful Umbrian wine selection) for a relaxing drink afterwards.
Dinner
If you’ve had enough walking for one day (probable) and you are feeling too relaxed to head back into the Piazza, you can simply stop here at the Nun Relais’ restaurant. Elegant and understated (as is both the hotel and spa), the dishes are Umbrian with a nouveau vibe. They also have a “light” menu, if you are still in the healthy spa groove.
Otherwise, head back to the Piazza del Comune and choose one of the restaurants suggested for lunch (I especially like the outdoor tables in the evening at Osteria Piazzetta delle Erbe).
To begin your first day at the Basilica, you can park in the free lot directly in front of the church. Otherwise, for those using public transportation, it’s a short (flat!) ten minute walk from the Assisi train station (located in Santa Maria degli Angeli) where all trains and buses arrive; just point yourself towards the soaring dome.
You can’t miss the imposing domed Basilica which dominates the valley below the historic center of Assisi in the neighboring town of Santa Maria degli Angeli; this church is probably the second busiest after the Basilica of Saint Francis. The church itself is remarkable perhaps only for its size (it’s the eighth largest church in the world), but inside it holds the tiny 11th century Porziuncola oratory, where Saint Francis and his followers worshipped. Saint Claire took her vows of poverty here, and Saint Francis asked to be brought here to die. Here you can also visit the Cappella del Transito, where Francis died, and the rose garden, where the miraculous roses which shed their thorns at the Saint’s touch still bloom.
If you are using public transport, you will have to take the local bus from the train station at Santa Maria degli Angeli to the Sanctuary at Rivotorto (check bus schedules at the bus stop right outside the station and buy tickets from the bar inside for €1…buy a return ticket, as well, if you are planning to take the bus back to Santa Maria degli Angeli for lunch). Otherwise, you can easily drive from the Basilica, passing in front of the train station and continuing for two kilometers straight on until you reach the large church on the left. There is also a taxi stand in front of the Basilica, and you can take a taxi (€10 from Santa Maria to Rivotorto).
Local’s Tip: Along the left flank of the Basilica (where the road passes), there is a lovely Renaissance fountain perfect for snapshots and to fill your water bottle.
Another example of a modest treasure enclosed in an ornate box, the sprawling Franciscan sanctuary in the neighboring village of Rivotorto contains the first home of Saint Francis and his disciples, the Sacro Tugurio (or sacred shed). Francis and his followers lived and worshipped in this rough stone hut from 1208-1211 and here began organizing what would become his order. In 1211, the group was granted use of the Porziuncola from the Benedictine Order, and the Sacro Tugurio was abandoned only to become a site of pilgrimage in the following centuries.
To return to Santa Maria degli Angeli for lunch, drive back the way you came. In front of the train station you will have to turn right at the traffic circle (the road you took coming is only open to buses going the opposite direction), but simply follow this road until the next traffic circle, turn left, and turn left again at the following traffic circle. Follow this road as it passes under the train tracks, and Da Elide is directly in front of you as you come up from the underpass on Via Patrono d’Italia. Otherwise, any local taxi driver will know this restaurant or the local bus (check bus times at the stop in Rivotorto) will leave you at the station and it’s about three blocks walking to the restaurant.
If you think that a restaurant near the train station is bad news, Da Elide is pleasant surprise. Just steps away from the Assisi train station (which is located in the valley in Santa Maria degli Angeli), this historic restaurant (and hotel) is a local favorite, known especially for their meat grilled over the wood coals and fresh egg pasta.
To reach the Hermitage by car, find your way back to Piazza Matteotti in Assisi (your beginning and ending point for Day 2). From here, turn right on Via Eremo delle Carceri (there is a brown arrow indicating the turn for Mount Subasio). After passing under the city gate, veer left and follow this road as it climbs up the mountain until you reach the Hermitage. Otherwise, the local bus runs from the train station in Santa Maria degli Angeli to Piazza Matteotti. From here, you can either get a taxi to the Hermitage (€15 or €20 directly from the train station) or—if you’re feeling athletic—walk the road up the mountain (you’ll be in good company; most pilgrims walk to the Hermitage). It’s about an hour uphill.
One of the most peaceful and evocative spiritual sites in Assisi, the Hermitage where Francis would often seclude himself in prayer and meditation is just off the beaten track enough to avoid the crowds of the Basilicas in Assisi and Santa Maria degli Angeli. Take time to wander both the building and the surrounding walking paths.
From the entrance to the Hermitage, continue climbing straight as the road climbs the remaining slope to the plain at the top of Mount Subasio. You can do this by car, taxi, or on foot.
Umbria is known as Italy’s “Green Heart”, and one indication of this is the numerous natural parks in this small region. Mount Subasio is one of these (the entire town of Assisi is included in the Park’s boundaries), and it would be a shame to miss out on the lovely fields at the softly rolling peak of this mountain…often full of wildflowers and grazing horses. You can take a drive through, or park you car and walk out onto the pastures.
Retrace your steps down the road which descends the slope of Mount Subasio, passing the Hermitage and stopping about 2/3rds of the way down at the Bar Ristorante Gli Eremi along the road on your left.
Caffè at Gli Eremi
Address: Via Eremo delle Carceri, 15 Phone: 075816286
You’ve earned a break after all this walking, so stop for awhile here for a snack and a cappuccino with a view (grab one of the picnic tables along the road).
From here, continue descending the road until you find yourself back in Piazza Matteotti. Take Viale Umberto 1 as it circles its way around the perimeter of the historic center. When you pass in front of the new cement multistorey Mojano parking long on the right, look sharp because Via San Damiano is the next left (there is a small brown arrow indicating San Damiano at the intersection, as well). You can also walk this same route (there are sidewalks along this busy road) or take a taxi (€15 from Piazza Matteotti).
The Sanctuary of San Damiano
Hours: 6:15am – 12:00am/2:00pm – 6:45pm
Your final stop today is actually where it all began. The sanctuary at San Damiano once held the famous crucifix (now in the Basilica of Saint Claire) which spoke to a praying Francis, commanding him to “go and repair my house which, as you see, is falling into ruin,” three times. Francis did just that…first interpreting the message as a call to restore the neglected San Damiano and Porziuncola chapels and later taking it to mean a tweaking of the Roman Catholic Church itself. In this vein, he founded the Franciscan Order and the Order of Saint Claire and—many hold—became one of the most influential figures in religious history, pioneering virtues of poverty, brotherhood, respect for animals and the environment.
Local’s Tip: If you are planning on using a taxi for this itinerary, consider hiring a driver for your whole day. Many drivers will take you from sanctuary to sanctuary (and also for a nice drive on the top of Mount Subasio) and wait while you visit each site for a set fee—often much less than what they would charge for each individual run. Call the Radiotaxi line at 073 813100 for information and prices.
Dinner
You are in your final hours in Assisi, and have three days of restaurant suggestions to choose from for your “last supper”. Most won’t start serving before 7:30, but chances are you are already a bit behind schedule and won’t have long to wait. From San Damiano, you can easily head back to the historic center of Assisi for one of the suggestions there, or, if you’ve had enough wandering for one day, have a simple pasta or pizza meal just steps from the sanctuary.
Ristorante Paradiso
Address: Via Padre Antonio Giorgi 6 Phone: 075816064 Website: http://www.assisiristoranteparadiso.com
Along the access road you took to reach San Damiano, a green gate on the left leads you to a parking lot. From here take the steep steps down to the charming restaurant/pizzeria which is immersed in a small wood and marks the site of an ancient Roman spring with baths. The food is simple and honest, the service quick, and the place is hopping with locals most nights.
Before You Go
Almost all the sites included in this three day itinerary are open to the public with no advance reservations needed. There are, however, two exceptions:
Piazza del Vescovado and Roman Domus
It is in your best interest to join up with a group to visit the Domus, as entrance is a flat €80 fee for groups of 2-15, so the individual ticket price is variable depending upon the number of visitors. To do so, call the Infoline (199 151 123 Mon-Fri 9:00am -5:00pm) to be included in a group tour.
Nun Spa Museum
You will need to book in advance, as they have a limited number of hammam slots a day. You can do so by calling 0758155150 or through their website at www.nunassisi.com, where you will also find a complete list of services and prices.
Transportation Tips
The itineraries for Day 1 and Day 2 are exclusively on foot (except for one step during Day 2, when a taxi is a possible alternative). The itinerary for Day 3 is best done by car, though it can also be done by a combination of public transportation (bus) and taxis.
Something Extra
Have some extra time? Here’s one thing to add to this itinerary:
Il Bosco di San Francesco (Saint Francis’ Woodland)
Hours: 10:00 am – 7:00 pm April to September; 10:00 am — 4:00 pm October to March (the last visit must begin an hour before closing time). Weekends only in February. Closed Mondays, and the final two weeks of January. Website: http://www.fondoambiente.it/beni/Index.aspx?q=bosco-di-san-francesco-i-beni-del-fai
Opened just two years ago, this gorgeously restored woodland just steps from the entrance to the Upper Basilica of Saint Francis is truly an homage to the saint’s love of nature. Three themed trails wind downhill towards the restored monastery and mill on the valley floor.
Medical marijuana and the compound THC (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol) is becoming a more popular alternative in the medical field. This is likely as this is one of the only natural alternatives for pain control available. For decades, the use of THC has been studied, scrutinized, and debated. More and more clinical research being conducted is proving the powerful therapeutic benefits of THC and medical marijuana. More and more medical professionals are recommending medical marijuana along with other FDA-approved THC medications in place of highly addictive opioids. There is research on the effectiveness of medical marijuana for treating Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD). However, anecdotal reports suggest that it can help with symptoms such as hyperactivity, impulsivity, and inattention. Some strains of cannabis contain higher levels of the cannabinoid CBD, which may have therapeutic effects on ADHD symptoms.But if you don’t trust using it you can opt to use alternatives to adderall and it will for sure help you.
HOW THC & MEDICAL MARIJUANA WORK
Medical marijuana and THC work in the body’s Endocannabinoid System (ECS). The ECS is a network of molecules and receptors that run throughout the body. It regulates hunger, mood, inflammation, and more. The phytochemicals, or cannabinoids, found in the cannabis plant attach to receptors to initiate their therapeutic benefits and restore homeostasis. The ECS is the largest system of receptors and is found throughout the body and brain. THC is particularly attracted to the CB1 receptors of the ECS found in the central nervous system. CBD gummies are edible candies infused with cannabidiol (CBD) oil. They come in various flavors, shapes, sizes, and strengths, and are mostly used for their potential health benefits. You can find more information about it on timesunion.com/ CBD is a non-psychoactive compound found in the cannabis plant that is believed to reduce anxiety, inflammation, chronic pain, seizures, and improve sleep quality.
CHRONIC PAIN RELIEF
Opioids are one of the most commonly prescribed groups of medications to combat those suffering from severe chronic pain.
While opioids have been thought to be helpful for these conditions there is a wide range of risks associated with their use including addiction, abuse, and overdose. In addition, to date there is no compelling clinical evidence that opioids actually work to reduce pain and improve function in the chronic pain condition.
Medical marijuana has been studied to be an effective and less risky substitute for opioids. Addiction is rare and side effects are fewer. Many would debate this point but the evidence is mounting that opioids are more dangerous than the plant-based therapy of THC. There is evidence to suggest that Adderall (amphetamine and dextroamphetamine) can enhance the analgesic effects of opioid painkillers. It should only be used under the careful supervision of a healthcare professional and with caution, particularly in individuals with a history of substance abuse. It is crucial to follow treatment guidelines and to avoid taking more than the prescribed dose of either medication. Gummies provide an easy and enjoyable way to consume CBD, as they do not have the strong taste and odor associated with CBD oil, and also offer precise dosing. However, it is important to purchase gummies from a reputable source to ensure quality and safety.
The compounds of the cannabis plant engage with CB1 and CB2 receptors that reduce pain and inflammation responses throughout the body. The cannabinoid compounds reduce excessive inflammatory responses allowing the body to experience less pain less frequently. The CB1 receptors help to modulate the pain response in the central nervous system. THC seems particularly helpful for neuropathy, check more info on weed pipes.
NERVE PAIN RELIEF
When the different cannabinoids of marijuana interact with receptors in the ECS the central and peripheral nervous systems (CNS, PNS) are also affected. THC provides therapeutic assistance to the PNS and CNS in relieving pain, numbing, and tingling associated with diabetic neuropathy and other forms of nerve pain. The CB receptors when interacting with cannabinoids (either endogenous or exogenous from plants) transmit a healthier, more balanced signaling of pain to the brain.
NERVE PAIN RELIEF
When the different cannabinoids of marijuana interact with receptors in the ECS the central and peripheral nervous systems (CNS, PNS) are also affected. THC provides therapeutic assistance to the PNS and CNS in relieving pain, numbing, and tingling associated with diabetic neuropathy and other forms of nerve pain. The CB receptors when interacting with cannabinoids (either endogenous or exogenous from plants) transmit a healthier, more balanced signaling of pain to the brain. The cannabinoids in the cannabis plant also offer antioxidant benefits throughout the body. They take care of excess free radicals throughout the body which have the ability to damage nerve endings when the body experiences oxidative stress. The molecular structure of CBD allows it to scavenge electrons before they can damage the cells, DNA or mitochondria.
RECOVERY FROM SURGERY
Post-surgery, the body will be more susceptible to pain and inflammation which can prolong the healing process when gone unchecked. Medical marijuana can help your body regulate these responses to offer a faster and more pleasant recovery process. At this time, most surgeons still use narcotics for short-term relief immediately after surgery. However, there is a growing role for THC in longer-term pain control.
Medical marijuana has also proven to help post-op patients have a healthier appetite and better overall mood after surgery! One of the main anecdotal benefits of medical marijuana is the improved sleep. Better sleep always results in better recovery.
Assisi is divided into two parts—the Lower (Parte de Sotto) and the Upper (Parte de Sopra). Though the distinction is purely semantic for most of the year, each May the town—home of peaceloving Saint Francis—sheds its normal spirit of brotherly love to spend three days (and nights) locked in intense competition as the two parts stage processions, scenes of medieval life, and concerts with period music as they vie for the honor of the Palio during the annual Calendimaggio festival.
In the quest for a longer, healthier life, many individuals are turning to the world of nutraceuticals and dietary supplements to support their well-being. One such supplement that has gained attention in recent years is Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, or NMN. NMN is believed to play a crucial role in the aging process and is touted as a potential elixir of youth. In this article, we will explore what NMN is, how it works, and the potential benefits it offers.
Understanding NMN
Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, or NMN, is a naturally occurring compound found in small amounts in various foods such as broccoli, avocados, and cabbage. It is a derivative of niacin (vitamin B3) and is a precursor to nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), a coenzyme that plays a vital role in many biological processes, including energy metabolism, DNA repair, and cellular signaling.
How NMN Works
As we age, the levels of NAD+ in our cells decline, which can contribute to various age-related health issues, including reduced energy production, impaired DNA repair, and increased inflammation. NMN supplementation is thought to boost NAD+ levels in the body by providing an extra source of NAD+ precursors. This, in turn, may support the various biological functions that NAD+ is involved in, potentially slowing down the aging process and promoting overall health.
Potential Benefits of NMN Supplements
Enhanced Energy Metabolism: NMN may increase cellular NAD+ levels, which could improve mitochondrial function. Mitochondria are the “powerhouses” of cells responsible for producing energy, and optimal mitochondrial function can lead to increased energy levels.
DNA Repair and Maintenance: NAD+ is essential for DNA repair and maintenance. By increasing NAD+ levels, NMN supplementation might enhance the body’s ability to repair damaged DNA, potentially reducing the risk of mutations and age-related diseases.
Anti-Aging Effects: Some animal studies have suggested that NMN supplementation may extend lifespan and improve overall health in mice. While these findings are promising, more research is needed to determine if similar effects occur in humans.
Cardiovascular Health: NMN might support cardiovascular health by improving blood vessel function, reducing oxidative stress, and promoting healthy blood lipid levels. This could potentially reduce the risk of heart disease.
Cognitive Function: Some studies have indicated that NMN may help support cognitive function and protect against neurodegenerative diseases by promoting neuronal health and preventing age-related cognitive decline.
Exercise Performance: NMN supplementation has been suggested to enhance exercise performance by increasing the availability of NAD+ for energy production. This could benefit athletes and fitness enthusiasts.
Challenges and Considerations
While the potential benefits of NMN supplements are intriguing, it’s essential to consider several factors:
Limited Human Studies: Most of the research on NMN is in its early stages, with the majority of evidence coming from animal studies. More human clinical trials are needed to confirm the efficacy and safety of NMN supplementation.
Dosage and Safety: The appropriate dosage of NMN for humans is still under investigation, and its long-term safety has not been fully established.
Cost: High-quality NMN supplements can be expensive, which may not be affordable for everyone.
Lifestyle Factors: NMN supplements should not be seen as a magic bullet. Lifestyle factors such as a balanced diet, regular exercise, and proper sleep remain essential for overall health and longevity.
Conclusion
best nmn supplements hold the promise of potentially supporting various aspects of health, particularly in the context of aging and age-related diseases. However, it’s essential to approach them with caution, understanding that the research is still in its early stages. Before starting any supplement regimen, consult with a healthcare professional to assess your individual needs and potential risks.
In the world of nutraceuticals and anti-aging interventions, NMN is just one piece of the puzzle. It’s essential to remember that maintaining a healthy lifestyle with a balanced diet, regular physical activity, and stress management remains the cornerstone of longevity and well-being. As the science around NMN continues to evolve, it may become a valuable addition to a holistic approach to health and aging.
This itinerary will explore highlights from the Parte de Sotto (everything that lies between the Basilica of Saint Francis and the main—and officially “neutral”–Piazza del Comune) and the Parte de Sopra, which covers the area from the central Piazza del Comune and extends east. Make sure you have comfortable shoes, as there will be some steep climbs through the narrow streets marking the upper part of this famed hilltown, but the views will be worth a bit of huffing and puffing!
We will also touch on a few spiritual sites outside the historic center of Assisi, either on the slopes of Mount Subasio above the town or in the Valley below. The timing of this itinerary is only a recommendation, as much depends upon your method of transportation (public transportation and walking will take more time than driving or hiring a taxi) and how long you choose to linger at each site.
La Basilica di San Francesco (The Basilica of Saint Francis)
To begin your first day, start at the Piazza Giovanni Paolo II public parking lot (some locals still call it Piazza San Pietro). Here there is ample paid parking, one of the main bus stops for those taking the local bus from the Assisi train station (located in Santa Maria degli Angeli in the valley below; check schedule at the bus stop for times and purchase tickets at the bar in the train station for €1), and a taxi stand (€10 from the train station). From here, it’s a short uphill walk to the Basilica above.
The ties between Assisi and her most famous monument are so symbiotic that it’s difficult to discern where one begins and the other ends; to know one, you have to know the other. Despite its sprawling size, the Upper and Lower Churches can get crowded during peak hours, so to enjoy the fabulous Giotto school fresco cycle documenting the life of Saint Francis in relative peace, it pays to time your visit for early morning—in fact, if you’re an early riser I suggest you try to get there before the time listed here to beat the tour bus crowds.
Local’s Tip: To fully enjoy the Basilica’s rich art and history—and its two churches, crypt, and museum– you should visit armed with a good guidebook or rent an audioguide from the stand to the left of the entrance to the Upper Church (€6/one hour tour; open 9:30am-5:30pm).
From The Upper Church in the Basilica, simply cross the street to the first building; your next stop is right on the corner.
Caffè San Francesco
Address: Via San Francesco, 52 Website: http://www.ristorantesanfrancesco.com
After your visit to the Basilica, it’s time to give your brain and feet a rest at this landmark local cafè. Try to grab the secret hidden table behind all the flowerpots on the corner for the best view in town, or enjoy the old-world style marble and scarlet decor inside while you sip your cappuccino.
From here continue down the main Via di San Francesco.
Via San Francesco
One of Assisi’s main thouroughfares, this long road is lined with everything from the kitschiest of souvenir shops to Assisi’s civic museum.
Local’s Tip: Stop to get a drink and fill your water bottles at the small fountain at the bottom of the stairs on the left which lead up Vicolo S. Andrea from Via San Francesco. The water is potable and the lionhead fountain charming.
Casa dei Maestri Comacini
Where the stairs of Vicolo S. Andrea meet Via San Francesco, take a good gander at this 13th century loggia and two-story extension to the right (dated 1477 on the coat of arms on the lower story). The building was named for the compass and rose reliefs above the door and the window to its right, suggesting that it might have belonged to the master masons who traditionally came from Lake Como. One of the best preserved medieval facades in Assisi.
From here, continue up Via San Francesco (away from the Basilica).
Oratorio dei Pellegini and Monte Frumentario
Hours: 10am–12pm/4pm-6pm ; closed Sun
You will come first to the unassuming Oratorio dei Pellegrini, built by a group of pilgrims returning from Santiago di Compostella in the 1400s. Though the drab exterior is easily overlooked, it belies the rich frescoes of the Perugino school completely covering the interior.
On the next block, the uniform series of facades lining Via San Francesco is broken up by the delicate columns of Monte Frumentario’s portico. This 14th century building—originally a hospital—later housed a guild which lent wheat and other farm products to peasants in exchange for pawned goods.
Next door, the Oliviera Fountain, built in 1570, features a plaque fixing the fine for doing wash in the fountain at one “scudo”. Don’t drink the water here, but feel free to take some great pictures of this lovely public fountain.
After admiring the fountain, continue along Via San Francesco passing under the arch and continuing uphill along Via Portica to Piazza del Comune.
Piazza del Comune
It’s time to take a break and admire the pretty Piazza del Comune. Grab a table at one of the outdoor caffes (try Bar Trovellesi under the portico near the fountain) and admire the 13th century municipal building lining one side of the piazza, the pretty fountain with its jetted lions, the soaring belltower, and—most importantly—the Temple of Minerva. From the 1st century BC, this is the most intact Roman temple facade in Italy.
From here, take Corso Mazzini on the left.
Il Corso
La Piazza and Il Corso is where all Assisi go to see and be seen. Unfortunately, Assisi’s main street has been taken over by shops and caffes catering primarily to the tourist trade, but if you’re looking for some traditional souvenirs to take home, you may want to stop in the stores here.
Local’s Tip: Assisi’s best bakery is “Bar Pasticcieria Sensi” about halfway down the corso on your right. Though not as showy as many other pastry shops around town, this is where the locals all flock to satisfy their sweet-tooth. If you have a taste for something savory, try the pan caciato (cheese bread with walnuts).
Local’s Tip: As you pass under the archway at the end of the Corso (where Piazza Santa Chiara begins) there is a water fountain in a niche in the wall to your left (at the base of the staircase). Stop for a quick drink here.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara (Church of Saint Claire)
Hours: 6:30am-12:00am/2:00pm-6:00pm
The pink and white striped facade of the church dedicated to Saint Claire shortly after her death in 1253 dominates this piazza, and the immense flying buttresses and intricate rose window only render it more dramatic. Don’t miss the San Damiano Crucifix inside (in the Oratorio del Crocifisso)…this is the one which spoke to Francis, commanding him to “go and repair my house which, as you see, is falling into ruin,” thus changing the course of history.
Local’s Tip: The stone benches along the overlook at the far side of Piazza Santa Chiara are a wonderful, shady place to rest for a minute and snap some fabulous photos of the Umbria Valley below.
From Piazza Santa Chiara, walk the length of the Corso back to Piazza del Comune.
Lunch
Unfortunately, there are no restaurants worth their salt along the Corso, so for lunch double back to the main Piazza. From here you have three great options, all within a few meters.
Trattoria degli Umbri
No frills traditional family-style trattoria with traditional Umbrian fare. It can get crowded in peak season and you may need a little patience with the slow service.
Address: Piazza del Comune, 2 Phone: 075/812455
Osteria Piazzetta delle Erbe
Modern twist on traditional cuisine and one of the few spots in Assisi with outdoor seating.
Address: Via San Gabriele dell’Addolorata, 15/A Phone: 075/815352
Trattoria La Pallotta
A Slow Food restaurant, this historic family-owned spot is heavy on local dishes and ingredients.
Address: Via della Volta Pinta, 3 Phone: 075/812649
From any of these three restaurants, make your way back into the Piazza del Comune and take the steep pedestrian Via San Rufino to Piazza San Rufino
Chiesa di San Rufino (Church of Saint Rufino)
Hours: 10:00am – 1:00pm/3:00pm-6:00pm Price: €3 (for the Museum and Cript) Website: www.assisimuseodiocesano.com
Assisi’s cathedral has been recently restored, so its twelfth century Romanesque facade and massive belltower are even more breathtaking. Don’t miss the small but excellent museum and crypt (in the piazza to the right of the facade), with its vaulted rooms and gracefully restored columns, it is perhaps the best collection of art and architecture in Assisi.
At Piazza San Rufino turn left into Via Porta Perlici and climb for about a block. On the left, take the stairs (there is an arrow indicating La Rocca Maggiore) as they climb, ending at the service road which leads to the entrance to the fortress.
Local’s Tip: If the climb uphill to the fortress is too rigorous, you can also get a taxi at the stand right in Piazza Santa Chiara. Taxis have access to the service road leading to the Rocca, but not normal traffic.
La Rocca Maggiore
Hours: 10:00am–7:00pm Price: €5 (or included in the €8 ticket purchased on Day 1 at Palazzo Vallemani)
The medieval fortress which sits above Assisi is one of its most fascinating, yet least visited, sites. This captivating warren of semi-restored tunnels, turrets, and courtyards is a thrill to explore for kids and grown-ups alike, and the heart-stopping climb up the far tower rewards you with one of the most amazing views over Assisi and the whole of the Umbrian valley below.
Descend the access road back to the staircase you took coming uphill. At the bottom of the stairs, turn right down Via Porta Perlici until you arrive in Piazza San Rufino.
Local’s Tip: Ready for a snack? The tiny pizza shop “Da Andrea” on the corner right across the street from the Church of San Rufino (there is a small wooden bench next to the door) has the best slices in Assisi.
Follow Via del Turrione uphill to the left of the facade of the church until it comes out at Piazza Matteotti. From here, you can either get a taxi to the Hermitage (€10) or—if you’re feeling athletic—walk the road up the mountain (you’ll be in good company; most pilgrims walk to the Hermitage). It’s about an hour uphill.
One of the most peaceful and evocative spiritual sites in Assisi, the Hermitage where Francis would often seclude himself in prayer and meditation is just off the beaten track enough to avoid the crowds of the Basilicas in Assisi and Santa Maria degli Angeli. Take time to wander both the building and the surrounding walking paths.
From here, either take a taxi back to your car parked in Assisi or all the way to Santa Maria degli Angeli (€15-€20).
To visit the Basilica, you can park in the free lot directly in front of the church. Otherwise, for those using public transportation, it’s a short (flat!) ten minute walk from the Assisi train station (located in Santa Maria degli Angeli) where all trains and buses arrive; just point yourself towards the soaring dome.
You can’t miss the imposing domed Basilica which dominates the valley below the historic center of Assisi in the neighboring town of Santa Maria degli Angeli; this church is probably the second busiest after the Basilica of Saint Francis. The church itself is remarkable perhaps only for its size (it’s the eighth largest church in the world), but inside it holds the tiny 11th century Porziuncola oratory, where Saint Francis and his followers worshipped. Saint Claire took her vows of poverty here, and Saint Francis asked to be brought here to die. Here you can also visit the Cappella del Transito, where Francis died, and the rose garden, where the miraculous roses which shed their thorns at the Saint’s touch still bloom.
If you think that a restaurant near the train station is bad news, Da Elide is pleasant surprise. Just steps away from the Basilica in the direction of the Assisi train station, this historic restaurant (and hotel) is a local favorite, known especially for their meat grilled over the wood coals and fresh egg pasta.
Transportation Tips
This itinerary is primarily on foot, though parts can also be done by a car or combination of public transportation (bus) and taxis.
Something Extra
Have some extra time? Here’s one thing to add to this itinerary:
The Sanctuary of San Damiano
Hours: 6:15am – 12:00am/2:00pm – 6:45pm
Your final stop today is actually where it all began. The sanctuary at San Damiano once held the famous crucifix (now in the Basilica of Saint Claire) which spoke to a praying Francis, commanding him to “go and repair my house which, as you see, is falling into ruin,” three times. Francis did just that…first interpreting the message as a call to restore the neglected San Damiano and Porziuncola chapels and later taking it to mean a tweaking of the Roman Catholic Church itself. In this vein, he founded the Franciscan Order and the Order of Saint Claire and—many hold—became one of the most influential figures in religious history, pioneering virtues of poverty, brotherhood, respect for animals and the environment.
Umbria is surprisingly dense with masterpieces of art and architecture, given its small size and relatively modest history (no Medici art patronage during the Renaissance here, as Umbria was part of the vast and stoic Papal State until the 1800s). It’s easy to spend a week or two criss-crossing this region taking in the churches, abbeys, monasteries, and civic museums without ever having to cross her borders to fill your days.
That said, the neighboring Le Marche has its own share of culture, much of it in quiet civic museums and echoing churches (though there are a few monumental exceptions). If you’re curious to head east during your stay in Umbria for the day and see what treasures this nearby region has to offer, take a look at this overview I wrote recently:
You can easily combine your day trip with a drive through the gorgeous Sibilline National Park, or a few hours at the beach along Le Marche’s Adriatic coast. But be sure to make it back to Umbria…we don’t want you to become too enthusiastic about our friendly neighbors!
It may look like I’ve abandoned you all, whiling away my days on the divan whilst imbibing on wine and chocolates.
Oh, yee of little faith. I’ve been here this whole time, just not here here.
I’ve been doing a bit of writing about Umbria and Italy for a number of other travel publications and sites, and as some of these articles may be of interest to folks planning a stay in Umbria or at Brigolante, I’m going to catch you up over the next few weeks.
I’ll begin with shopping.
Photo by G. Dall Orto
I wrote a Shopping Guide for Assisi post many moons ago, but some of the information there has changed in the meantime. So, recently I put together two new posts listing some of my favorite haunts to drop coin in Assisi and Perugia. You can read them here:
Umbria hosts over 20 music festivals each year, an astonishing number given this region’s tiny size and population (Ikea hasn’t even deemed it worthy of a store yet). Even more surprising, however, is the world-class quality of the music festival scene–belying the otherwise sleepy, provincial character of these bucolic rolling hills and medieval stone villages.
The height of the festival season is the summer, of course, as organizers take advantage of the warm evenings to hold concerts and events in the stunning piazze and gardens across the region, but good listening is to be had even in the dead of winter.
Here are some of the best annual music festivals, and why you should take the time to stop by for a listen:
Umbria Jazz
Where: Perugia
When: July
Why: Umbria Jazz is the king of Umbria’s music festivals; a juggernaut of an international event which stretches over two weeks and attracts some of the biggest names in jazz (and beyond—I’ve seen R.E.M., Alicia Keys, and Eric Clapton here, as well). The lively feel in Perugia during UJ is irresistible—take a walk down the main Corso and pop in at one of the free outdoor concerts if you don’t want to spring for tickets at one of the headlining concerts. If you are driving into town for a mainstage event, give yourself plenty of time to park and get settled before the set starts—traffic is notoriously a gnarled mess the evenings of sold-out shows. I get to town early, take a fun stroll downtown, and then head to the venue (usually the Santa Giuliana stadium) about an hour ahead of time, where I buy a beer and sandwich from the stands inside, dine on the lawn, people-watch in leisure.
If you can’t make it to Perugia for Umbria Jazz, don’t despair. Umbria Jazz Winter is held every December in Orvieto, and Jazz Club Perugia’s season runs from November to March, featuring Italian and international musicians plunking out some of the best jazz around.
Where: Spoleto
When: June/July
Why: If Umbria Jazz is the king of Umbria’s music festivals, the Spoleto Festival—as it is colloquially known—is the queen. UJ powers through with the sheer force of its size and star power, where the Spoleto Festival finesses the fine arts with grace and dignity, bringing the lovely city of Spoleto to life along with it. More of an arts than strictly a music festival, the program is rich with opera, classical music, dance, theater, and cinema events attracting both the biggest names in art and theater (Isabella Rossellini and Baryshnikov were guests this year) and promising young performers. If you are looking for an excuse to visit Spoleto (which, by the way, you don’t need. This stately hill town is worth a visit on its own.), this is a great one.
Trasimeno Blues
Where: the towns surrounding Lake Trasimeno
When: July
Why: I’m from Chicago, so nothing says “summer” to me like an outdoor blues show on a lake shore. Yes, I realize the venue, crowd, and lake are all about 1/100th of what I’m used to, but the vibe at Trasimeno Blues is regardless big fun (and, given that public drunken antics are rare and frowned upon in Italy, this is one great blues show that you won’t risk vomit-splattered shoes at.). The concerts are held at a number of locations around Lake Trasimeno, but I am especially partial to those at Castiglione del Lago’s romantic medieval fortress.
Trasimeno grooves all year long, so if you won’t be around in July try Bianco Rosso & Blues (concerts with dinner and wine tasting from local vintners) from August through October, or Soul Christmas during the month of December.
Sagra Musicale Umbra
Where: Umbria
When: September
Why: Location, location, location. Yes, the classical music at the Sagra Musicale Umbra is fabulous, but I would be a big fat liar if I didn’t admit that usually the main reason I attend these concerts is the venue. SMU’s events are often held in churches, abbeys, and palazzi generally closed to the public, and I have been known to sit through an entire harpsichord concerto (an instrument I can usually tollerate for a maximum of 12 minutes. 13, tops.) if it will get me into a mysterious monument I have passed a million times but never managed to find open—in fact, I did just that last year and finally saw the elegant Romanesque interior of Spello’s delightful 11th century San Claudio church. If you are picking through the program trying to decide on a concert, I suggest you give heavy weight to its location. The music may fade with time, but these heart-stopping historic halls certainly won’t.
Perugia’s Classical Music Foundation season program runs from October to May and equals the SMU in quality of music, if not eccentricity of venue. Concerts are held in Perugia’s Sala dei Notari, Morlacchi Theater, and San Pietro Basilica—three stunning settings, but not much cloak and dagger-ing has to go on to visit any of the three on your own.
Umbria Folk Festival
Where: Orvieto
When: August
Why: If you’re wondering what else is out there on the contemporary Italian music scene besides winners of X-Factor and Tiziano Ferro, the Umbria Folk Festival is the perfect opportunity to find out. Many of these artists put a hipster spin on historic regional Italian musical traditions or instruments, so expect to hear echoes of the Tarantella and lots of guitar and accordian. Fun stuff (and many of the concerts are free).
Assisi Cambio Festival
Where: Palazzo di Assisi
When: July
Why: This nano-festival (last year Assisi Cambio Festival hosted a sum total of four concerts) is near and dear to my heart. One, because I think it is a shame and a scandal and a mystery that the powers that be in Assisi can’t pull their shit together enough to put on a decent music festival during the year (I mean, come on, Narni has a music festival. Narni. Really, people.). Two, because this little bon bon of a festival was the brainchild of a group of locals who decided to throw it together a few years ago, and they’ve done a damned fine job of keeping their momentum going. And three, because Palazzo (a hamlet right outside of Assisi) has a fetching little castle courtyard which is the perfect place to pop in for a concert on a summer night, and is exactly 43 meters from The. Best. Gelato. In. Assisi. So, to recap: Medieval castle courtyard, summer night, live jazz, best gelato. Need I say more?
Umbria World Fest (previously Canti e Discanti)
Where: Foligno
When: July
Why: I know there are a lot of Umbriaphiles out there who are feeling very blindsided by the left field choice of Umbria World Fest right now. Stay calm….I’ll walk you through it. Foligno often gets a bad rap, largely undeservedly. Located on the Umbrian plain, you won’t get any stunning views from this industrial town, but that doesn’t mean it lacks a pretty historic center which offers some of the best shopping, most authentic trattorias, and warmest people in the region. Foligno is Umbria’s friendly “Hi there, can I help ya?” Midwest to Perugia’s formal “Ahem, may I assist you?” East Coast, and is going through a cultural renaissance right now—of which this light-hearted arts festival is testimony. Last year I caught a Tarantella performance from a group of Pugliese musicians…there was much singing and dancing in the streets, despite the fact that 99% of the crowd couldn’t penetrate the thick Puglia dialect. Music is, after all, the universal language.
Also ran:
Festival delle Nazioni (Città di Castello in August/September): Classical music festival focusing on one guest country each year. Preggio Music Festival (Preggio in July/August): If you’re hankering for opera, this is one of the few music festivals which feature it. (The other safe bet is Spoleto.) Festival Pianistico (Spoleto in April): Classical music festival for piano. Trasimeno Music Festival (Magione in June/July): This upscale classical music festival is the pet project of Canadian pianist Angela Hewitt and is held in the dramatic courtyard of Magione’s Castle of the Knights of Malta.