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Umbrian Wine Tour…Drink and Be Driven!

It takes a lot for me to squeeze my butt onto a minivan with eight other adults for the day.  Big money, for example.  Brandishing a loaded weapon often will do the trick.  Or, if all else fails, the promise of a glass of wine.

Gusto Wine Tours

Which is why I found myself hauling my bulk into the front seat of just such a vehicle (I at least had the foresight to call shotgun) recently for what turned out to be an absolutely delightful day with Mark and Giselle Stafford of Gusto Wine Tours.  After living in the area for years, during which time they have developed quite a knowledge of and rapport with the local wine producers, this trasplanted British couple has founded a tour company which offers, as they say, “an informal day enjoying the best of Umbrian wine and food.”  To introduce their new venture, they organized a promotional day tour for a group of local innkeepers who, as luck would have it, are also a bunch of lushes (hey, we weren’t driving).

Mark and Giselle from Gusto Wine Tours

And We’re Off…

We began the day at midmorning by meeting up at a central location in Santa Maria degli Angeli (though Gusto Tours can also arrange free local pick-up and drop off), where I was able to meet the affable Mark and his bubbly wife Giselle.  Mark functions as driver and tour guide, while Giselle generally handles the office work and client contacts.  Mark loaded us into the aforementioned minivan (Giselle, who would be meeting us later for lunch, sped off in her cherry red convertable sport coupe while we tried not to look after her longingly) and we were off.  Gusto Tours visits vineyards primarily located in and around the town of Montefalco, famous for its full bodied Sagrantino, light Grechetto, strong grappa, and high quality olive oils.

Cantina Romanelli

Our first stop was Romanelli, an organic cantina run by a three generation family of the same name, who were the archetipical example of Umbrian hospitality.  The tasting took place in their living room, with Nonna and Nonno looking on as wife Anna Rita offered her home-made pinoli and Sagrantino cookies and husband Costantino presented their wines, oils, and talked to us about their growing business.    The Romanellis began putting their wine on the market just a few years ago (they produce around 35,000 bottles a year), but we tasted their first issue Sagrantino which was—okay, I know I’m not supposed to swear—but it was effing awesome.  Like that scene in Ratatouille when Remy starts describing the fireworks that go off in his mouth when he bites into a strawberry and a chevre at the same time (I have preschoolers now…I don’t cite Tarantino anymore.).  Totally a Sagrantino to watch.

Costantino and Anna Rita from Cantina Romanelli

Anna Rita's amazing pinoli cookies (I got the recipe!)

Cantina Sant’Anna

Next we stopped by the tiny, homey Cantina Sant’Anna (the smallest cantina producing a DOC Sagrantino in Umbria).  If you want to check out a typical Umbrian family farm, complete with friendly yapping dogs and a standing room only tasting space which is pretty much a repainted garage with a couple of wine posters and the requisite picture of the Pope (John Paul…nobody really likes the new guy that much) hung on the walls, you’ve come to the right place.  Francesca and Andrea only bottle about 10,000/year and most of their sales are to locals who come armed with their own containers.  We sampled their home-made salami and fresh bread with a wonderfully smooth 2007 Montefalco Rosso.  But what really brought down the house was their Dolce Novembre (a Sagrantino Passito which, since it is aged only two years instead of the compulsory 3, cannot carry the protected denomination)…wonderfully full sweetness that paired perfectly with the tozzetti made by Nonna Maria.

Francesca from Sant'Anna pours some of their amazing Dolce Novembre (you thought I was kidding about the Pope)

Cantina Fongoli

At this point the group was beginning to ease itself from jovial to raucous, so our intrepid (and foresightful) guide Mark steered us toward some carbs to soak up a little alcohol.  We lunched at the charming Fongoli vineyard and agritourism, again right outside of Montefalco.  This family enterprise produces Sagrantino (both dry and sweet),  Montefalco Rosso, and a Grechetto and the charm of its tasting room, crammed with antique farm tools and winemaking accoutrements and adjacent to the ageing cellars with oak barrels larger than our minivan, was matched by the quality of their wines.

The ageing cellar at Cantina Fongoli

During lunch (an endless procession of coldcuts and bruschette, a Sagrantino risotto, grilled meat, vegetable gratin, and the ubiquitous tozzetti), we sampled a series of vintages paired with each course and were most struck by the Rosso Riserva from 2004.   Just when we were entering a numerous wines + large meal + ample conversation + crackling woodstove fire induced contemplative state, Mark announced that we were headed to a final cantina.  Despite our initial shock and awe, we rallied well and no one had to be bodily carried to the minivan.

Our wonderful lunch

Cantina Colle Ciocco

And lucky we were that our initial protests were ignored…Colle Ciocco was a delight.  Run by the charming brothers Lamberto and Eliseo—who began their production as a post-retirement hobby—this farm also produces award winning Sagrantino, three types of extravirgin olive oil, and grappa.  We were pleasantly surprised by their incredibly smooth, almost buttery, Clarignano white…an evolution of the traditional grechetto which uses a blend of voigner grapes, one of the few in Umbria.  I especially enjoyed sampling and comparing their three olive oils, each produced by a different pressing technique which yields oils that are both top quality yet very unique.  We finished the day with a oak barrel aged Sagrantino grappa…at which point we did risk having to be carried to the minivan.

Lamberto presents his wines at Colle Ciocco's tasting room

Our tour group after sampling the wonderful Colle Ciocco wines and oils

The bottom line

I should mention that at all four estates we visited the wines, grappas, oils, and other products (Romanelli, for example, also produces a fabulous honey) are available for purchase (parcels are initialled by Mark to avoid confusion and stored in the van) and that Mark translated the presentation of each winemaker from the native Italian into English for our group.  He also had bottled water along for us and Bloody Mary mix for hair o’ the dog.  (Just kidding.)  They can also customize the itinerary of the cantinas included in each day tour based on the interests or requests of their clients.

The end of a lovely day

Aside from being just plain fun, the day organized by Gusto Wine Tours was a unique way to discover a series of small, off-the-beaten-track wineries and sample some of the best wines and oils Umbria has to offer.  Mark and Giselle managed to surprise me, even after living in this area for more than 15 years, with their inside knowledge of the local cantinas and backroads around Montefalco.  I highly recommend checking out one of their tours…but remember to call shotgun!



  1. Melissa Muldoon |

    Ciao! Nice post about Giselle and Mark! I had the privilege of receiving a first hand account and seeing pictures from them as well as Letizia e Helen. Some how I have managed to cultivate this really amazing fun friendship with these folks on fb even though I am based here in San Francisco …and reduced to dreaming about Italia constantly. But, the good news is that I have plans to take one of these tours in September when I visit Umbria! Non vedo l’ora!!!

    by the way love your blog! I enjoy living vicariously through expats who have taken up roost nel bel paese! A presto!

    • rebecca |

      Ciao, Melissa! How exciting–my first comment (it took me awhile to figure out how to reply…I’m still getting my head around this blogging thing)!

      Yes, FB is a fun way to get in contact with lots of expats here in Umbria…I’m happy to hear you’ve been enjoying following all our adventures! Drop me a line when you are here in the fall, and we can meet for a cappuccino!


  2. Melissa Muldoon |

    Ciao Rebecca! Sounds like a plan! Would love to meet you too. I will look you up on FB too. Love all you folks that live in Umbria. I may just have to come join you one of these days! A presto! Melissa

  3. Susie L |

    Rebecca, I always enjoy your essays and posts on Slow Trav. I am not much of a tour person, but this sounds like a whole lotta fun! I am pining away for Umbria…

    • rebecca |

      It really was a lot of fun…I think the charm of the “guide” and the great dynamic of our group was key, of course!
      Thanks so much for your kind note, Susie!

  4. Cristyle |

    I visited Montefalco this past August with my husband and in laws and we visited Romanelli. I fell in love with those Sagrantino cookies but didn’t think to ask for the recipe which is heartbreaking. Any chance you wouldn’t mind sharing it? We brought home a couple of bottles and I would love to make a batch! Thank you so so much! Ciao, Cristyle


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