Ci spiace, ma questo articolo è disponibile soltanto in English.
Nel 2003 Rebecca ha iniziato a scrivere dei saggi per il sito Slow Travel, raccontando la sua esperienza di ragazza di città che dagli Stati Uiniti si è trasferita nella campagna umbra.
Le sue riflessioni sono riprodotte qui.
Umbria Slow:
Heh. Somewhere I have a photo of my kids playing baseball with a loaf of Todi bread as a bat.
MMM . . . la scarpetta . . . il panino . . . la bruschetta (Arturo’s, with garlic) – more to miss about visiting Assisi (nothing beats the cheese bread, though).
I seem to remember that the traditional bread in Florence does not contain salt. I might be wrong, but I’m sure a friend on my daughter or my daughter told me that many years ago.
I’ve visted Umbria twice, staying at a friend’s tower along the moat in Umbertide. I LOVE the native Umbrian bread that I’ve bought at the bakery near the Rocco, and the bread we’ve had at the Albergo Capponi, as well as throughout the region as far as Norcia. We (myself and my traveling companions – my partner is a chef) find it a delightful change to the Tuscan bread of which you speak. I won’t agree that it doesn’t have flavor – but I certainly agree that it is a perfect accompaniment to Umbrian food. Try it with the softer pecorinos – or chestnut honey. Divine. But perhaps I was Umbrian in a past life. Feels that way. Gil is correct in that traditional bread in Firenze does not contain salt either. Ciao!
You really hit the nail on the head! That’s exactly how I felt the first time I tried Umbrian (and dare I say, Tuscan) bread. But once you discover the secret of it’s “subtle” flavors, i.e. edible fork and toasted/grilled for enjoying olive oil – but first rubbed with a clove of garlic, drizzled with the extra virgin and sprinkled liberally with salt — it is totally amazing! Your post made me smile with my memories. Grazie!
It’s the one single thing I don’t miss about living in Umbria! And one of the greatest things I love about living in Puglia – the bread. :-)
Tina, that’s so funny…when I can find it, I always get pane pugliese at the bakery! Umbria misses you, however…don’t get too carried away by the charms of Puglia!
I seem to have hit a nerve with many who have had close encounters with Umbrian bread! Thanks, Rosemary, for you comments!
Jeffrey and Gil…I did a little research and found that, aside from the Papal tax question, many areas in rural Italy which used mountain spring water in their cooking (including bread making) tended to make saltless bread because the water itself is so rich in mineral salts, so they were able to get those nutrients simply by using their water to make the dough. This might explain why areas of Tuscany also historically make saltless bread….
Ah, George, are you pining for some good Umbrian food?!?
Amy, hilarious.
My grandmother, who lives in Cantalice (Rieti) used to bake this unsalted bread too. Me and my family live near Rome but still buy only this “pane sciapo”. We love it: it’s just perfect for scarpetta or with some slices of fresh prosciutto.
We don’t like roman bread, insted: too chewy and a little burnt.
Hi Ilario…it may be that explanation regarding the use of naturally salted mineral water, as Rieti is an area which is rich in spring water as well. Yes, I agree…I don’t like breads which are too cooked crust!
Traditional Umbrian bread is the reason I learned to make bread! I’ve even won over my Italian husband, who up until recently insisted that the local bread was better for the reasons you reference in “La Scarpetta.” Salt! Give me salt!